Cracking the Code — What you can learn from wine labels & shelf talkers. Part 1.

We’ve all seen them, in the wine isles or supermarkets and wine stores. Shelf talkers and tags with lots of adjectives and exclamation points. Attractive bottle labels with dates, names and logos. But what the hell do they all mean?

Well, there's plenty you can figure out, by reading between the flowery lines. Let’s start with the talkers and tags. They can be the biggest load of bullshit, but they can be deciphered. First off, make sure the name and vintage on the talker matches the bottle it’s posted near. You’d be surprised how often these are wrong. Vintages change, but the talker from the last vintage is left up, or worse a different wine from the same winery gets put in the space, but the talker remains the same.

Now, let’s get into the lingo. First off, forget the scores. They’re just an indication somebody liked the wine, but it’s the tasting notes that tell you why. Those notes also tell you a bit about what’s in the bottle. Words like “buttery,” “creamy,” and “vanilla” can mean the wine’s had a  big oak treatment. And if the wine is really cheap, it can mean the wine didn’t see actual oak barrels, but had bags of oak chips sunk into it, while it sat in steel tanks. If that sounds dishonest, it is. Words like “racy,” “vibrant,” “bracing,’ and “clean” can tell you the wine has zippy acidity. Just what I look for in Sauvignon Blancs. “Tannic,” “structured,” “old world,” and “firm” can mean a red wine made in the old-school, lower-alcohol way, that needs time to come around. Wines like these aren’t big, fruity friendly wines that drink well young. Conversely, the words “big,” “soft,” “ripe,” “rich,” “friendly,” “forward,” “new world” usually refer to reds that are bigger in alcohol, lower in tannins made for drinking now.

So, what about the labels on the bottles? I’ll use the front label of a recent fave for example: Franciscan Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Alc 13.5% by volume (in very small print). Pretty simple huh? Yes, and no. Let’s decode it. “Franciscan Estate” is the winery. “Napa Valley,” means no less than 75% of the grapes came from California’s Napa Valley, but they can come from different vineyards. A wine with a “California” designation can come from anywhere in the state. A wine with a vineyard designation like “Stagecoach Vineyard,” or “Estate Vineyard,” means 95% of the grapes came from that one vineyard. “Cabernet Sauvignon” means no less than 75% of the grapes in the wine are Cabernet Sauvignon, but that 25% can be anything else. Often Merlot or Cabernet Franc, but can be Zinfandel, Syrah, or others. “2007,” means no less than 95% of the wine came from the 2007 vintage. But that’s not all, it also means the grapes were harvested in 2007, not that the wine was bottled in 2007. The wine could have been barrel aged as long as 24 months before bottling. Most wineries will brag about extended aging on the back label. “Alc. 13.5% by volume,” tells you a lot. First, it’s a lower number, so the wine is more old-school, tannic and less ripe. It will taste more like where it was grown than a wine with a higher number. It's not a juicy, fruity wine. In whites a lower Alc % means higher acidity, and less super-ripe fruit.

Whew! That’s a whole helluva lot, isn’t it? And guess what, there’s more. This post has run on long enough. I’ll do a Part 2 later. But now you can find a bit of the truth locked in the shelf tags and labels of the next wine you look at.

Cheers,

California Sparkling wine for $9.99 at Trader Joe’s, and you drink it!

OK, so on my Facebook page I teased the question, “Can a CA sparkling wine from Trader Joe’s for $9.99 really be worth a damn?” Well, I happy to report the answer is, “YES!” I’m talking about the Non-vintage Trader Joe’s Reserve Brut North Coast Sparkling Wine. And yes, it’s only $9.99.

So why in the world would I try a bottle of bubbly from TJ’s? There were hints that it might be good on the label. First hint “North Coast.” There are more than a few nice sparklers that come from CA’s cool North Coast. It’s a good climate for bubbly. Second hint, the Alcohol level was only 12.5%, juts what most Champagnes come in at. Third and final hint, it’s a mix of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. Add all those up, and it was worth rolling the dice at $9.99.

So what’s it taste like? Red delicious apples and pears, with a touch of bread dough and maybe something minerally. It has enough acid to make it bright on your tongue, but there’s also a nice creaminess to it. And the bubbles are vigorous, and fairly fine (a good sign for bubbly).

Look, I’m not saying this’ll remind you of the French stuff because it won’t. It’s not complex or deep enough. But for $9.99 who the hell cares? This is like when Gloria Ferrer’s nice Sonoma Brut used to be only $9.99 at Cost Plus. Good bubbles you can crack on a Tuesday, just because. Run out and get you some, but leave a few for me.

Cheers!

Thanksgiving, a real turkey of a meal for wine pairing.

I’ve been asked time after time, “What’s a good wine for Thanksgiving?” When Alison (the muse for this blog thing) asked me again, I decided it was the perfect subject for a Vinerant.

You may be surprised to learn that my go-to vino for turkey day is an old Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, something over five years old, or a good Napa Valley Merlot. Yes, I said it — Merlot. Because our traditional roast turkey is easily rich enough to stand up to Cabernet, or the softer Merlot. The real problem for wine matching is all those damned side dishes. Candied yams! Give me a break. Those sides run the lighter whites right off the table. It takes a rich, big wine to prevail.

That said, you may run into those guests at your table that insist on a white wine. So I’ll list some good bets, but I’ll be focusing on reds. After all, it’s my blog, so my rules. That said, to answer Alison’s request, all the wines mentioned can be had at Total Wine, or Trader Joe’s. Plus, all are well under $20. Of course, these wines won’t be aged much. If they were, they’d cost more.

To cut to the choice, here are my top choices. Then you can go through my notes. Or not. Up top you.

#1 Franciscan Napa Valley Merlot 2006 — 13.5% Alc $15.99 Total Wine & CostCo

#2 Franciscan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon  2007— 13.5% Alc $16.99 @ Costco & Total Wine

#3 Trader Joe’s Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon  2008 — 13.7% Alc $9.99

FIRST OFF, WINES TASTED 11/12 — 11/13.

Three Knights Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2009 — 13.5% Alc $7.99 Trader Joe’s

COLOR — Bright ruby red, very light at the edges. Light in color over all, not a dark red. NOSE — Cherry cola, a touch of strawberry with a touch of musty mushroom, and maybe a bit of barnyard.                                                                                                                                    TASTE — Nice candied red cherry fruit & a touch of cola and vanilla. Slightly unripe strawberry. Not much earth.                                                                                                              FINISH — Medium bodied, with good bright acid, medium in length, and nothing green. Vanilla from oak covers the fruit.                                                                                                  RATE — 3 Stars. While lighter in body, this is a pretty typical Carneros Pinot — for just $7.99. Decent Pinot, from a real place (not basic CA) at that price is tough to get.

Sebastpol Hills Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2010 — 14.5% Alc $9.99 Trader Joe’s

COLOR — Bright & clear ruby red to the edges. Medium depth.

NOSE — Red cherries and berries. Not a gushing nose. A touch of mushroom. Not really complex.

TASTE — Nice red cherries and berry fruit with balanced acidity. Some vanilla from oak. No sign of the 14.5 % Alc.

FINISH — Medium bodied, with a medium length. Slightly mouthwatering.

RATE —3.5 Stars. I think this is better than the Three Knights. Not a very complex wine, but tastes like the cooler Sonoma Coast and pretty decent Pinot for $9.99. I’d pick this to stand up to Thanksgiving fare better than the Three Knights.

Franciscan Napa Valley Merlot 2006 — 13.5% Alc $15.99 Total Wine & CostCo

COLOR — Deep garnet red, all the way to the edge.

NOSE — Big nose of dusty cherries with notes of sage and mocha. Nice.

TASTE — Mouthfilling sweet cherries with touches of mocha, vanilla with dusty tannins.

FINISH —Medium to full bodied, with some tannins. Cherries and mocha, with good length.

RATE —4.5 Stars. This is what Napa Merlot can & should be. Tastes like Oakville, with dusty sage notes. Great quality for under $16. Had trouble spitting this out. Wine of the night. You & your guests will love this! A perfect wine if you want the words “Napa Valley” on the table.

Trader Joe’s Reserve Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon  2008 — 13.7% Alc $9.99

COLOR — Deep garnet red, to the edges.

NOSE — Red currents and black cherries with notes of pencil lead & black olive. Nice.

TASTE — Mouthfilling red currents, cherries, with same hint of black olives & some mocha.

FINISH — Full bodied, currents, olives and pencil lead, with some velvety tannins. But not a mouth-drying finish.

RATE —4 Stars. Still love this. I wouldn’t age this much. A wine for now. To me the best of the TJ’s Reserve Cabs.

Trader Joe’s Reserve Mendocino County Cabernet Sauvignon  2009 — 13.9% Alc $9.99

COLOR — Deep purple-garnet out to the edges. A young color.

NOSE — Dill and tart red cherry, something like stones in the background. Needs air.

TASTE — Bright red berries and cherries. No hint of the green dill from the nose. Sweet on entry, maybe a bit of vanilla and menthol. Tastes like it’s from a cooler climate, which Mendocino County is. This deepend and got better with an hour of air. Changed to blueberries, blackberries & mocha.

FINISH —Medium bodied, with some drying tannins at the end. Good length.

RATE —3.5 Stars. This is a young Cabernet that’s drinking well now, and may not go anywhere with time. Still not a bad value in today’s CA Cabernet world. Got better with an hour of air.

Trader Joe’s Reserve Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 — 14.7% Alc $9.99

COLOR — Deep garnet red to the edges.

NOSE — Red cherries a touch of black berries, vanilla and menthol.

TASTE — Sweet black cherry with some vanilla. Very round and ripe, but not hot from Alc.

FINISH —Soft vanilla & fruit. Not complex. A touch of tannins.

RATE —3 Stars. This is round and ripe, for those that like softer, easy-drinking wines. Not an ager. Nothing wrong with this, just not my style. But fine value in CA Cabernet. Let this breathe for 45 minutes.

REDS TASTED EARLIER:

2007 Franciscan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon — 13.5% Alc $16.99 @ Costco & Total Wine

COLOR — Deep garnet red all they way to the edge, Deep, opaque

NOSE — Red currents, red cherries, dusty sage and something meaty.

TASTE — Currents & cassis, tart cherries, sage and dust. Full body

FINISH — Long & deep red fruit with serious dusty tannins. Sticks your lips to your teeth. Full bodied. OLD SCHOOL!

RATE — 4 Stars. This is everything I personally want form a Napa Cab. Kills wines twice its price, for me. Needs time, like five years. I’ve bought 10 so far. A perfect wine if you want the words “Napa Valley” on the table.

2008 Beaulieu Vineyards Rutherford Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon — 14.5% Alc $15.99 @ Costco Also at Total Wine

COLOR — Deep garnet red. Opaque all the way to the edges.

NOSE — This one changed with air. At first it smelled of the dusty currents I expect from Rutherford Cabs, but later changed to red cherries and eyucliptis, with a hit of vanilla.

TASTE — Red cherries, mocha and a good touch of minty-vanilla.

FINISH — Lush red cherry fruit, vanilla and some soft & dusty tannins. Medium-full bodied.

RATE — 3.5 Stars. I used to LOVE this wine in the early 90s, when it was $10.99 & 13% Alc. But winemakers change, and so do fashions. I can’t help but like this wine, but it isn’t a classic Rutherford Cab, like it should be. Still, if you’re not into the harder, old-school Napa Cabs like I am, you may LOVE this wine! I think it will age well for 3 years.

OLD STAND BYS, NOT TASTED  FOR THIS BLOG

Saitnsbury Garnet Carneros Pinot Noir — 13.5% Alc $15.49 @ Total Wine                       Don’t let the screw top bother you. This wine is better than the pinots mentioned in the tasting notes. I have the 2008 in my cellar.       

Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir

This is one of the prototypes for Carneros Pinot. Great Cherries and cola with mushroom and earth. Nice acid. Hard to go wrong here.

Cambria Santa Maria Julie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir                                                                     One of the top values in pinot from Santa Barbara County year after year. A little gutsier than the Carneros pinots mentioned, with more earth, but can easily stand up to Turkey, etc.

WHITES FOR THOSE WHO MUST

 When it comes to Thanksgiving, I’d stick with Chardonnay. I’ve tried other whites, and they don’t really have the stuffing to hold up to the rich foods of the season. (yeah, I couldn’t leave the “stuffing” pun alone) But I’m not into the big oaky, butter bombs many CA chards have become. Here’s a list of fruit- & vineyard-driven Chardonnays I think do the job.

Jordan Russian River Chardonnay — 13.5% Alc $15.97 @ Total Wine

I used to hate this wine, but Jordan dialed way back on the oak, and created a nice fruit driven wine. Rich, pit fruits of white peaches and nectarines, with hints of Myer lemons, minerals and some good acidity.

Acacia Carneros Chardonnay — $14.97 @ Total Wine

This is an always nice Carneros Chard. Not an oak bomb, with some acid, focuses on pit fruits, like white peaches and nectarines.

Martin Ray Russian River Unoaked Chardonnay — $14.99 @ Total Wine

I like this a bunch! Real Russian River wine. Nose of tropical fruits, but balanced pit fruits and acid in the mouth. Don’t fear the screwtop. This will play with Tgiving faves.

Cambria Santa Maria Katherine’s Vineyard — $13.97 @ Total Wine

A dependable Chrad from Santa Barbara. Not a lot of oak, enough acid to work with the rich turkey. I haven’t bought this in a while, but tasted not long ago and it never sucks.

An Open Letter To The Greedheads Of France’s Bordeaux Region.

Dear Bordeaux, you’re dead to me.

Seriously, where to do you get off charging the usurious prices you’re asking for your 2009 vintage? Sure, I’ve noticed Parker and Suckling are jizzing themselves over the wines, but haven’t you noticed where the world economy is in 2011? Do you really expect to have any sort of place in the lives of regular wine lovers? Well let me tell you, this wine lover is telling you to fuck right off! (sorry about the F-bomb, there.)

I just got an email from one of my favorite San Francisco wine stores, and the prices they’re asking for pre-release purchases (which are always cheaper than when the wines actually hit the shelves) are shocking. Take a gander at these:

Léoville Barton $99.99 a bottle! Pichon-Baron $139.99. Canon $139.99 and I’ve never even heard of it! And they don’t stop there. $189.99, $249.99 all they way to $899.99 A FREAKING BOTTLE! Sure, it’s for the top-flight La Misson Haut-Brion, but I can get CASES of top-flight 2006 Brunello di Montalcino (one of Italy’s grand wines) for the cost of one bottle. And 2006 is a killer year for Brunello. Hell, I could completely restock my cellar with damn fine vino for that one bottle.

So that’s it! I’m done. Cutting those bastards off, right here and now. When I’ve finished my last bottle of Bordeaux, I will not buy another, until some sort of sanity come over them. I hope they suffer a horrific market crash, locust and raging fires all in one year.

OK, I feel better now.

Cheers!